Arequipa (part II) & Colca Canyon, Peru

Saturday, May 3
I made the mistake of trying to lie down for a bit around 1am before my bus comes at 2am...bad mistake. Apparently I slept through my alarm as I awoke to a loud banging on my door saying the bus was outside waiting for me. I quickly threw on a pair of jeans and grabbed my jacket. I sleeply climbed into the bus and grabbed a window seat...unfortunatetly it was the seat above the wheel well, so my knees really didn't fit and I was forced to keep my legs in the aisle. It was about a 3 hour drive to get to our first stop where we were supposed to be fed breakfast. The bus was so cold on the drive that ice began forming on the inside of the windows. Needless to say, I was not prepared for this kind of cold and spent the entire time trying to find ways not to freeze to death. The other passengers were apparently made aware of these conditions as they were all sleeping soundly. The day before, while walking around Arequipa, I had asked one of the treking companies about the 1 day tour to Colca Canyon and was told vehemently not to take it as it was very dangerous. The man I spoke with claimed that the drivers, because they had to cover such large distances to get to the canyon and back in one day, were crazy and pushed the limits of the vehicles. I decided it was worth the risk and was not sure if I was ever going to get another chance to see Colca Canyon. Well, I would have to say that the man was correct in his assessment of the drivers. I was scared driving in cabs in Mexico City, but this was something else!! But, we made it to our breakfast spot...with several passengers sprinting off the bus to vomit. After a few pieces of bread and some 'mate de coca' we headed off for the canyon.

Our next stop was next to a church where the main attraction is an eagle that people can take pictures with. While the area was largely unimpressive, the eagle was something to see. I have an affinity for birds of prey and this was a real treat for me...especially when it would spread its wings. After seeing the eagle, we headed to an area where you could view the hanging tombs, special burial areas high up in the cliffs surrounding Colca Canyon. They were difficult to spot, except for a few where a distinctive red color appeared to be dripping from the tombs. I believe the color was from dyes used in the burial clothing of the dead. The major stop on this 1 day tour is Cruz del Condor, a cliff overlooking a deep part of the canyon where Andean condors nest and frequently fly. I was lucky enough to get to the Cruz del Condor in time to see about 5 condors. A few of them flew just overhead, probably no more than a few meters above me, and I was able to get some good pictures. These condors would soar for hours, using the air currents of the canyon, and never flap their giant wings. Our guide was telling us that the wingspan of the Andean condor would routinely get up to 4m.

We left Cruz del Condor and began our long trip back to Arequipa. We made several stops along the way to view different areas of the canyon and the surrounding area. At each stop there were several local men and women selling fruits and jewelry or performing for spare change. The most amazing site for me was the agricultural areas. The way the people had designed and divided their land made the area look just like a page out of a paint by number book. Our last stop on the way back to Arequipa was at Mirador de los Andes, the highest point in the area, which allowed for outstanding views of the major mountains and volcanoes. The site is located 4,910 meters above sea level and aside from the views of mountains and volcanoes, there were hundreds of stone structures placed all around. Originally, these structures were created by indigenous people who hiked up to the area and left a stone that they had carried with them in this spot. Now, most of the structures are made by tourists...but it still is quite a site to see. I made it back to Arequipa around 6pm, completely exhausted and ready to relax before the next leg of the journey which begins the next morning with a flight to Cusco.

Friday, May 2
I spent most of the day Friday walking around Arequipa, taking pictures of various churches and monuments in the city. I also picked up a new day pack for my 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. In the afternooon I visited the Museo Santury that houses Juanita, the most famous of the Inca mummies that was found near the summit of Ampato, one of the volcanoes in the area. Juanita was surprisingly well preserved and is currently being kept in a glass box at -20 degrees Celcius with 90% humidity. The tour of the Museo Santury did not allow cameras or photos of any kind, so unfortunately I don't have any pics to share. I returned to the hostel after the tour and decided to take a one day trip to Colca Canyon. Colca Canyon, it is said, is the second deepest canyon in the world (3191m), with the only deeper canyon being nearby Cotahuasi Canyon. The only bad part about putting myself on the list to go is that the bus leaves for the canyon at 2am.